Center of the universe
Australia. It often call «the country on the contrary» where everything is overturned head over heels: the North is at the equator, the South – at a pole, in June the winter begins, in December – the summer, at night month looks horns up, and instead of the Big Dipper the Southern Cross is shone.
Piece of a pie
But to these metamorphoses quickly you get used and even that fact that water in a sink twists in the opposite direction, ceases to surprise already next day. In gift shops the world map on which the central place occupies the enormous continent Australia, and round it, in the overturned look hangs, any trifle – unusually small and the distorted America, Europe, Asia is restricted.
From the point of view of оззи (radical Australians) the world such is. Many of them in soul call the part of the world something like "Center of the universe".
Actually Australia is much more, than it seems from the opposite side of a planet: its total area is comparable with the area of the USA (the truth, without Alaska) and only slightly concedes to Europe
In the time Australia divided into states without special inventions, having cut on equal pieces, as a juicy pie. Occupying the fourth part of the country, Queensland passes under a name «Solar staff», and his inhabitants call «Declining bananas».
In the Australian State of Queensland there is no winter with its indispensable satellites – slush and cold, but there is a rich and various nature – mangrove thickets, magnificent beaches, rainforests, coral reeves. Here it is possible to go all the year round in shorts and to eat fresh oysters, to play golf and to be dipped into the ocean.
The most exotic resorts of the Queensland coast are concentrated round Cairns – small, but the cult small town to the northeast coast of Australia. Possibilities for rest here the most various – from a safari on a jeep with bathing in cool falls before visit of plantations of local farmers with tasting of the most tasty mango wine. In Cairns it is possible to go down on рафте on thresholds of the fourth category of complexity, to see dancings of natives and to feed the largest crocodile containing in bondage – 5,25 meters from a nose to a tail tip! But main and obligatory for visit attractions of Cairns – two miracles of the nature about which speak validly: Big Barrier reef and Damp rainforest.
Based at the end of the XIX century as the small fishing settlement, the city of Cairns became today almost the most popular vacation spot in Australia. Here very comfortable climate, in the summer (in December-February) average temperature keeps near a mark of 33 degrees on Celsius, and in the winter (when in Europe the summer) makes about 25 degrees.
Ocean bottom in the Cairns oozy and viscous therefore tourists stop in the next resorts most magnificent of which Kov is considered Palm trees. Many years in a row this bay held a rank of the purest beach of Australia, but last year the palm passed to the next Triniti Bich. And still the majority of tourists continue to prefer Palm trees Kov. First, there are more than small restaurants and gift shops the remarkable zoo, and thirdly the sea horizon, secondly, is nearby located decorated with two picturesque islands: one is called «A hat of a scout», another – as "Double".
Unique eucalyptuses grow in a bay of Palm trees Kov мелалукка, or peper-bark that «the paper bark» means. These rare trees it is strictly forbidden to cut down or break, the law punishes the violator a penalty to half a million dollars. Therefore local hotels are designed so that walls made a detour of growing eucalyptuses and when it is impossible to make it, a tree leave indoors and pass it through a roof. Evkaliptovye groves and wooden cottages make a whole, the atmosphere of special harmony and unity with the nature why is created.
As well as in other resorts of Australia, in Palm trees Kov it is possible to see a great number of surfers and fans of sailing. Certainly, waves here not such powerful, as in other Queensland resort – Gold Kost. In any case, the open ocean differs from a serene country pond, and special rules of bathing here operate. Till 18-00 rescuers – strong young people in fitting yellow suits ashore are on duty. It is authorized to float only between the red tags established on a safe site and if on a beach the black flag flutters, the ocean means is closed for bathing.
Sharks in Palm trees Kov are found only rifovy, small and timid, absolutely harmless to the person. If of whom and to be afraid, so it is a poisonous jellyfish box (it still call «a sea wasp»), similar to a jellylike chest with feelers of two-meter length. Медузьи shoots are covered with tiny capsules with poison which is shot at contact with any live being. This poison operates seven times quicker than poison of a cobra so the victim does not live more than five minutes. Stung it is possible to rescue if to pour out on the struck places strong vinegar and to give it special antidote. However, there are jellyfishes at the ocean only when water temperature exceeds 31 degrees on Celsius. When water is colder (the most part of year) «горгоны» sit out in holes at a bottom and on a surface are not shown.
Footpath in the remote past
Having a rest in Cairns, it is necessary to rise to Kurand’s small town, by height of several hundred meters where conducts Sky Rail – "Nebesnaya Road" with the carriages floating over a rainforest. It is considered that it is the longest in the world (7,5 kilometers) a ropeway. And the most non-polluting. During its construction it was not ruined any palm tree. On those places where basic towers were put, trees were dug out and changed somewhere nearby.
On the highest point it is possible to make a small stop and to pass on the wooden planked footway laid among an interlacing of exotic vegetation. Than the rainforest surrounding a footpath is unique? That it was not mentioned by cataclysms occurring on the earth – volcanic shocks, floods, temperature drops. To take, for example, wood ferns. Now they look in the same way, as well as 150 million years ago. That is, making walk on a rainforest, we can see, how our planet far back in the past looked.
In a rainforest the fertile layer makes only 30 centimeters. Below – only sand and stones. Any plant does not originate deep into, and on the contrary, aspires to break through as it is possible above, to light. The competition is high, it is necessary to use any possibility to rise upward. Here, in the face of all, the artful tree with the name «Suffocating figs» entangled next гуайаву and creeps up on its trunk. Eventually the murderer completely will surround with roots the victim and will strangle her. Guayava will decay, in it there will be an emptiness, and suffocating figs it is necessary to stand on the roots. Process will occupy years two hundred, but it not term for a rainforest. And here a palm tree with the name wait a wail that means «Wait a little bit». This plant has stalks in the form of the lashes, covered with sharp hooks. Lashes flutter downwind, clinging to the next trees and pulling out a plant in the top circle. If you took such hook, it is necessary to stop and a little to wait while the palm tree will not release clothes. If not to pay attention and continue a way, the hook can cut skin to a bone.
«The heavenly road» comes to an end at an entrance in park of national culture of natives of "Tzhapukay". In the program – interactive svetomuzykalny representation with a smoke, holography and emergence on the screen of the well-known rock to Ulura, the main shrine of aboriginals of Australia. Then on an open-air stage show dancing performance based on aborigensky myths and show fire kindling by a friction. After that the practical part follows. Guests learn to throw a boomerang, to understand medical plants and to play a didgeridoo – the musical instrument of the natives similar to an enormous decorated pipe.
On a reef
The big Barrier reef, almost the main natural phenomenon on the earth, stretches from Papua of New Guinea to the Southern tropic. The main part of coral educations is under water, but sometimes during outflow separate islands appear on a surface. In general three conditions are necessary for the birth of a reef: small bottom, transparent sea and warm underwater environment. Thanks to existence of all these signs coast of Australia, also had a dvukhtysyachekilometrovy coral chain – the unique live being, visible with the naked eye of space.
Many think, as if corals – only hardened branches. But it not so. Actually a coral – no other than a colony of the microscopic sea animals similar on tiny медузок. In each being lives small to the rastenyitsa, turning energy of the sun in nutritious glucose. Meduzki take away from sea water calcium and build to itself the lodges reminding those a table, a plate, a mushroom. All these dwellings are covered with holes and connected by a uniform labyrinth. If one coral managed to catch a plankton, it shares a food with all colony of relatives.
From a small town Douglas Port in which port squeak tackles of the yacht and rock on boat waves, daily on the Big Barrier reef high-speed catamarans of the cruising company Quicksilver go. The name it in transfer means "Mercury". And really, siyashchy the silvered sides the vessel with the pointed nose slides on water, as if a mercury drop from the broken thermometer. Accompanied by smiling dolphins, the catamaran for an hour and a half passes 30 miles and moors to the big pontoon established on a top of a coral island of Aginkot. A pontoon – a peculiar depot in the middle of the ocean on which tourists spend some hours: float with a mask, fly over the ocean by the helicopter and feed up large sea inhabitants slices of the small small fish. Divers are dipped into the surprising world of underwater caves and coral educations, watch plants, mollusks and animals. Water here is transparent, as crystal, underwater pictures it turns out unusually juicy and bright.
A variety of life around the Reef such what is not present in and two oceans. One only sea mammals about 150 types. Humpbacked whales here come, give birth to cubs, and with the got stronger kids come back to coast of Africa. Along the Big Barrier reef the biggest population of sea cows (dugongs) which on the structure are closer to elephants, than to sea animals goes. Dugongs of 3 meters grow and can weigh to 400 kgs, give birth once in five years of one cub and eat a sea grass. By the way, the sea grass and algas is not same. Unlike staying in a condition of free swimming of algas, the sea grass has strong roots with which clings to a bottom.
Douglas port – the tourism center with magnificent hotels, and the next Mossmen continues to store charm of the provincial Australian small town what it was at the beginning of the last century. The most part of local population (four thousand people) is engaged in processing of a sugar cane. In Mossmen that railway still operates that hundred years ago served plantations.
As well as earlier, a collected reed cut and load in the vagnetka fastened to an engine. The train shrouded in a smoke stops at сахародавильни where of a reed squeeze out juice, warm up and lead up to a syrup condition. Then the syrup gets thick and turns into sugar – in one of the main articles of the Australian export along with sheep wool and meat of a kangaroo.
Moving on the road deep into the Australian continent, it is possible to notice that the earth gains more and more red color. It speaks the big contents in it охры – the rust which has impregnated the soil at the time of volcanic activity. Thanks to high concentration of an oxide of iron, the soil of Australia is unusually fertile. Mango gardens, citron groves, tea plantations here blossom. It is possible to see unique coffee trees – unique in the world, grown up without any chemicals. The Australian coffee spray nothing, because in this country, unlike all other, there is no coffee wrecker.
Wide fields of a sugar cane are again replaced by a dense rainforest, and then the road rests against a wide and deep stream. It is Deyntri’s river, on it it is possible to make cruise on a paromchik and if will carry, to see the crocodile who has hidden in coastal thickets. Deyntri runs into the sea, and consequently water to the mouth saltish and muddy. The largest here live in the world sea crocodiles with the most powerful jaws. Speaking to technical language, pressure at a sting makes twenty tons. Not so long ago there was a fantastic case: having languished from a heat, the elderly tourist from Israel decided to bathe in the small river.
Literally in few minutes it got out on the coast already without a foot – more truly, without an artificial limb which used for many years. Companions dragged away the disabled person far away from water, and the crocodile spat out following izzhevanny to pieces an artificial limb made of a heavy-duty titanic alloy.
To breed crocodiles begin on reaching 15-year age. During the marriage period males look for for themselves the territory with females living on it. The wrinkled giant should leave across the ocean to reach the mouth of the following river and to try to banish gospodstvuyeshchy there other crocodile. That is why from June to August in Cairns it is not recommended to bathe at night. At males the peak of activity is the share of a night-time, and at night it is possible not to see the plate, predupredzhdayushchy that the beach is closed for bathing. Such plate is established by the Australian rangers when trace a way of migration of the crocodile who has left across the ocean.
Country of adventures
Aside Keyp Yorka, the most extreme point of Queensland and all Australia, it is necessary to move by two passable cars that in случает breakages at least one remained in working condition. The one who wants to reach Cape York peninsula, natural barriers trap: deserts and mountains, woods and falls, abysses and blockages. The road passes on the low-studied, desert district. Here the real country of adventures occupied by gloomy spirits and beings unknown to a science. Dangers trap the traveler continually. On a roadside the plant which leaves it is impossible to touch comes across – the death comes in half an hour, and medical antidote does not exist. However, always near this plant there will be a small flower, having swallowed which it is possible to save life. How this flower looks, it is known only to natives, but they keep the knowledge secret.
In a thicket of primitive tropics improbable animals meet: a being shone frog, the sumchaty cat, a flying fox, wood поссум. In the first half of the last century поссумов ruthlessly destroyed. Long time fur coats from fur of a chinchilla in the West were fashionable – so called skornyazhnik fur поссума. If will not lock on shooting, we never any more would not see this animal alive, as, for example, a marsupial of a wolf. More truly, only one live marsupial a wolf in the Sydney zoo remained, and now it want to clone.
From November to March on Cape York peninsula monsoons and cyclones rage, water tornadoes and plants fall upon the woods as if get drunk with surplus of a chlorophyll. On roads it is impossible to pass even by an all-terrain vehicle, from under snags huge toads wink, on glades there are mushrooms hallucinogens. But from May to August does not spill drops, everything around dries up, moisture leaves deeply under the earth, and only wild dog of a dingo can distinguish places where water rises close to a surface.
Esdi to trust scientists, much millions years ago existed uniform праматерик Gondwana. When it broke up to separate parts, Australia departured far on the North and it appeared cut off from the whole world. Thanks to long isolation, the nature which is absolutely not similar to the nature of parts of the world here remained. There was a unique climate, unusual plants grew, there were unprecedented animals. In other parts of the world there is nothing similar – here the first reason for the sake of which it is necessary at least time in life to go to Australia.
WHAT TO DO:
To drink wonderful Australian Fifth Leg wine
To meet a dawn at the ocean, having come into water together with sunrise
To visit the zoo Cairns Tropical ZOO and to feed from hands of a kangaroo
To wear a wide-brimmed leather hat
To welcome all passers expression «гдэй!», as real оззи
THAT NOT TO DO:
Not to put a plank bed under a coconut palm tree, not to suffer from the fallen nut
Not to smoke without confidence that in this place it is authorized
Not to scratch on a trunk of a rare eucalyptus «There was Vasya»
Not to treat natives with Russian vodka
Not to hammer the European fork into the Australian socket by means of a hammer
Text and Igor Stomakhin’s photo, special correspondent of "Wanderer"
The author and edition thank employees of campaign of Australian Travel Club for perfectly organized travel across Australia.